Hello. I want to thank you for the video. I build solid and semi hollow body electric guitars. People often ask what is flame, or quilt or quarter sawn. Especially when terms like tiger stripe, fiddle back, ribbon, quilt, and the like are bandied about. Or to explain why a quarter sawn neck is more desirable. You mentioned Northern Pa and NY state as where some of the wood came from. I’m from Potter County. I bet you get some of the wood from there. My granddad had a sawmill near Genesee, Pa.

Keith’s Note: Thanks for sharing that Richard. Rick and his son Brian have told me that the Pennsylvania/NY region has almost ideal growing conditions for some species.

I have always wondered how ‘we’ did it before the kiln was invented. What a pleasure to see and hear. It’s like being there. Thanks.

Well done, informative video. Thanks again. I wouldn’t mind a bundle or two of that wood sitting in my backyard. I’m just not sure I could keep my hands off it for three to five years. Cheers

A neighbor down the street has some 5 year old hickory that has been airdried only. I have looked at some of your videos and am wondering how crucial is kiln drying for the constuction of a bedroom set? I was thinking that even if it is kiln dried to 8%, as soon as you bring it home and it sits for a couple of weeks moisture content will jump to whatever percentage the ambient air is, correct? Any advice you can give me on this subject would be appreciated.

Keith’s Note: Great question. One way to look at this is to remember that before the modern age, air drying lumber was the only way to prepare wood for furniture making. The finest cabinetmakers seasoned lumber by letting it age naturally – in the open air. So you are in good company.

And yes, the wood will acclimate to your location and climate. Perhaps move it inside to your shop and let it settle there for a few weeks to make sure it adapts to you your shop and home conditions, which may be different than the outside humidity in your area. This will allow the raw lumber to “move” a bit as it adapts to its new home and before you begin milling it, thus minimizing movement after you’ve started working with it.

Do air dry logs (that are recovered) from under water need the same amount of (drying) time as fresh cut logs?

Keith’s Note: Boy Don, you’ve stumped me on this one. Hearne doesn’t specialize in bog logs. I’m not sure who is the definitive source for the answer on this. Anyone want to pipe in?

I just bought some black walnut boards that were sawn out of logs that were cut 2 years ago. About how long would it take to air dry to build cabinets with the boards? Thanks for any info.
Jerry

Keith’s Note: Rick Hearne says here that it takes one year for each inch of wood thickness. One inch thick boards take at least one year to dry. Two inch thick boards take at least two years. Etc.

On the bog logs as you label them, for info concerning the drying of similar items there is an outfit in Ashland WI, Timeless Timber 2200 E. Lakeshore Dr. Ashland, WI 54806, area code 715 #685-9663 that retrieves logs from Lake Superior and sells them all over the world because of the fine growth rings and strength associated to them. They would know the info you seek. I also know there is one other in Bayfield WI but I don’t know the name. Contact Bayfield Chamber of Commerce I’d think. That should get you started. Terry

Keith’s Note: Thanks for the heads up on that.

I use ash, maple, birch & hickory for baseball bats and recently found a supplier. I was told that I could dry the wood on my own by keeping the bark on the cut section (about 40 inches). Is this true? And about how long would this take? I live on long island.

Keith’s Note: Rich Hearne says that you should allow approximately one year per inch of wood thickness. I haven’t heard that it is necessary to keep the bark on the wood. You are seeking a target moisture level of between 6% to 18% depending on the climate where you live. In a tropical area, you target final moisture level will be higher. In an arid, desert climate, your target will be a lower moisture level. In long island you should be seeking a moisture level in the middle of the range. If you are inexperienced in gauging moisture levels, you should buy or borrow a wood moisture meter and periodically check the wood to determine your progress.

Thank you for your response. With regards to keeping the bark on the wood, “my supplier” indicated that this would help insure even drying and eliminate any twisting, etc. My supplier also indicated the process should only take a few months. I can deal with a few months, not years. That being stated, do you know anyone in Long Island area that can dry 12/4 in the types of wood I mentioned? I haven’t been able to find anyone.

Thanks again.

Keith’s Note: Bill, perhaps you want to kiln dry this lumber. That’s going to be much quicker. And feel free to leave the bark on. The wood can be best kept from moving by stickering the cut lumber and binding it into packs. These stickered bundles hold the wood flat and help minimize twist, cup, bow, and warp. Of course it won’t eliminate it entirely. Rick does a fantastic job of explaining the process in this video. I hope all this helps.

I don’t have any referrals for yards with kilns in Long Island. Sorry.

We are drying rough cut pine in a shop building. We have fans and a dehumidifier helping the dry process. Do you have any other suggestions that could speed up the drying? Thanks.

Keith’s Note: Gee, I think you are probably going about as quick as you can without resorting to a kiln. Make sure it’s stickered correctly. Mostly it’s about letting nature take it’s course. Good luck and keep us posted.

I would like to know about how long it will take for green maple to dry in my basement. It is by a wood stove, about 3 inches thick, and 20 inches long. Liked your video.

Keith’s Note: For one, be careful it’s not too close to the wood stove. We don’t want a fire :-). As for time to dry, we can only use the rule of thumb for one year per inch of wood thickness. On thicker boards it may take even longer. If the climate in your basement is very warm and dry, then you are likely to see faster drying times, but it’s anyone’s guess as to how much faster. And also you’ll likely get some pretty severe checking, warping, and cracking on that board, given it’s relatively short length and the fact it is drying alone and not in a stack.

I have an Alaskan log mill and have started sawing my own lumber from my property and people giving me logs, as well as urban logging free tree removal. I am stumped on staining from stickers and what to type of wood to use for stickering. Also what about bug control, I ripped a down red oak that has bugs in it. I have read that they will die once the moisture content gets low enough they cannot survive, but I am Leary about bringing it into my shop, I don’t want to infest my house. Thanks.

Keith’s Note: I recall Rick mentioning what wood is used for stickering, but it might not have made it into the final cut. Sorry. Regarding infestations, I’ve talked to several guys in the business. Two things can help. One is to load the air-dryed wood into a kiln and do the final drying there. This will kill the bugs. I don’t know that specs for temperature or duration. The other alternative is to get a professional exterminator to “tent” the dryed stack, just as you would fumigate a house.

I’ve recently cut down a few dead trees and plan to use parts of the trunk as natural side tables in the home. I’ve removed the bark, and have them sitting on the driveway doing some air drying right now, waiting for when I can begin to sand, finish, and polyurethane seal them. Stumps are 24 inches tall, and about 18.5 inches in diameter. What’s the best way to ensure the any bugs inside are dead and how long should I allow these to dry for before bringing them into the house? Or will the polyurethane coating be enough to stop them from getting out?

Keith’s Note: I’m told by those in the business that the cleanest, slickest way to eliminate risk of insect infestation is to kiln dry the lumber. Hearne Hardwood does this only after fully air-drying their premium timber. Vintage Timber out of Southern California treats their wood by fumigating it. They hire a professional fumigation company and “tent” their stock prior to sale. For the home dryer, you are left with perhaps careful inspection and possible spot treatments with insecticides. Remember that the the “old-timers,” centuries ago, didn’t have chemical treatments, so they likely used the visual inspection method. Depending on the project, it should become apparent as you work with your material if there is an infestation

We have a walnut tree cut down and stored for about 10 yrs. We just cut it into 1.5 ” slabs about 6 months ago. How do you know when it is dry enough? So I need a tool to measure moisture content?

Keith’s Note: Yes. That’s a sure way to tell.