Keith’s Note: Yes. That’s a sure way to tell.

Keith’s Note: I’m told by those in the business that the cleanest, slickest way to eliminate risk of insect infestation is to kiln dry the lumber. Hearne Hardwood does this only after fully air-drying their premium timber. Vintage Timber out of Southern California treats their wood by fumigating it. They hire a professional fumigation company and “tent” their stock prior to sale. For the home dryer, you are left with perhaps careful inspection and possible spot treatments with insecticides. Remember that the the “old-timers,” centuries ago, didn’t have chemical treatments, so they likely used the visual inspection method. Depending on the project, it should become apparent as you work with your material if there is an infestation

Keith’s Note: I recall Rick mentioning what wood is used for stickering, but it might not have made it into the final cut. Sorry. Regarding infestations, I’ve talked to several guys in the business. Two things can help. One is to load the air-dryed wood into a kiln and do the final drying there. This will kill the bugs. I don’t know that specs for temperature or duration. The other alternative is to get a professional exterminator to “tent” the dryed stack, just as you would fumigate a house.

Keith’s Note: For one, be careful it’s not too close to the wood stove. We don’t want a fire :-). As for time to dry, we can only use the rule of thumb for one year per inch of wood thickness. On thicker boards it may take even longer. If the climate in your basement is very warm and dry, then you are likely to see faster drying times, but it’s anyone’s guess as to how much faster. And also you’ll likely get some pretty severe checking, warping, and cracking on that board, given it’s relatively short length and the fact it is drying alone and not in a stack.

Keith’s Note: Gee, I think you are probably going about as quick as you can without resorting to a kiln. Make sure it’s stickered correctly. Mostly it’s about letting nature take it’s course. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks again.

Keith’s Note: Bill, perhaps you want to kiln dry this lumber. That’s going to be much quicker. And feel free to leave the bark on. The wood can be best kept from moving by stickering the cut lumber and binding it into packs. These stickered bundles hold the wood flat and help minimize twist, cup, bow, and warp. Of course it won’t eliminate it entirely. Rick does a fantastic job of explaining the process in this video. I hope all this helps.

I don’t have any referrals for yards with kilns in Long Island. Sorry.

Keith’s Note: Rich Hearne says that you should allow approximately one year per inch of wood thickness. I haven’t heard that it is necessary to keep the bark on the wood. You are seeking a target moisture level of between 6% to 18% depending on the climate where you live. In a tropical area, you target final moisture level will be higher. In an arid, desert climate, your target will be a lower moisture level. In long island you should be seeking a moisture level in the middle of the range. If you are inexperienced in gauging moisture levels, you should buy or borrow a wood moisture meter and periodically check the wood to determine your progress.

Keith’s Note: Thanks for the heads up on that.

Keith’s Note: Rick Hearne says here that it takes one year for each inch of wood thickness. One inch thick boards take at least one year to dry. Two inch thick boards take at least two years. Etc.

Keith’s Note: Boy Don, you’ve stumped me on this one. Hearne doesn’t specialize in bog logs. I’m not sure who is the definitive source for the answer on this. Anyone want to pipe in?