How to Hand Cut Precision Dovetails: The Pins (Part 1 of 2)

Yes, the hand cut dovetail joint is still alive and well. Oh sure — in today’s world of power tools and gadgets, many woodworkers and production shops use jigs combined with routers, bandsaws, tablesaws, or purpose-built dovetailing machines to enable quick and repeatable results. But there remain very good reasons to cut dovetails by hand and many advocates who continue to practice this traditional skill.

No matter what your experience level (whether you’ve tried making dovetails by hand in the past or you are interested in learning something new) there are secrets to getting easier and better results. In this complete two part tutorial, I introduce to you Cabinetmaker Craig Vandall Stevens’s systematic approach. In this “Part One” video, Craig masterfully reveals his logical and precise steps to cutting elegant dovetail pins, quickly and efficiently. You’ll learn how to layout the pins using a marking gauge and bevel jig; saw cut to the lines; and cleanly chop out the waste with a chisel — all with minimal risk and trouble. (9.5 Minute Woodworking Video - Part 1 of 2)

For part two in this dovetailing series go to: How to Hand Cut Precision Dovetails: The Tails (Part 2 of 2)

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Comments

Michael D on 12 September, 2008 at 10:10 pm #

I’d glad I watched this after the other one Craig did about cutting with a saw. I realized I should be flipping over the piece and I was probably hitting with the chisel too hard (probably because I wasn’t flipping the piece over).

Thanks for the great video and Craig does an incredible job explaining what he is doing while he does it and _why_.


Mark MacMullen on 20 October, 2008 at 7:09 pm #

It’s ALWAYS nice to sit at the feet of a master and learn from watching and listening. Old School. Thanks.


Wood-fired! on 11 November, 2008 at 12:37 am #

Very interesting technique for removing the waste. I’ve not seen this before. Very clearly explained. I was taught (old school) to mark the depth of the waste both sides and use a coping or jewellers saw to remove the bulk of the waste and then pare by sight to the lines. It would be interesting to try both methods to see which is faster and more accurate. It may depend on the size of the pin waste. Thanks again to Craig and Keith.

Keith’s Note: Mark, it would be interesting to hear your feedback after experimenting a bit with this method.


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