Some might call this type of hand plane exotic, eccentric — even antiquated, but Japanese planes are attracting increasing notice and attention, even in today’s world where modern tools and machines offer instant ease and results. Known as Kanna to the native speaker, the Japanese plane appears to be simplicity itself. Historically, this plane was comprised of only two parts, the Dai or body, and the blade. But this apparent simplicity is deceptive because the designing and crafting of each part is a complex and exacting process steeped in history.

Fortunately, using a Japanese plane, at least at a basic level, is far easier than making one. In this video, Japanese tool expert Craig Vandall Stevens introduces us to this interesting, useful, even powerful hand tool. He’ll break down the basic construction of the plane and take a closer look at the uniqueness of the Japanese forge welded iron & hardened steel blade. Craig also demonstrates the correct methods — the hand & body positions and the unique pulling motions for enabling maximum success. (6 Minute Woodworking Video)

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Comments

Eric on 18 August, 2008 at 1:06 am #

What a great video, well done Keith and Craig! A couple video suggestions for the future:

1. Using a kanna to smooth a wider board (so far we’ve only seen Craig plane edges).
2. Using other types of Japanese planes (jointer, block, whatever they use).

Does the kanna have a cambered blade? What’s the most common way to sharpen it - waterstones? Anything tricky about sharpening a Japanese blade?

Keith’s Note: Thanks Eric for all your kind words and support (from Malaysia!). Great comments and yes, I’ve got more videos in the pipeline. Viewers should make sure they subscribe so they don’t miss new stuff coming out - on the subjects you mention above and other vidoes from my travels in the world of wood.


Bob on 29 August, 2008 at 10:08 pm #

Yes, great video! Shouldn’t jump in, but yes Eric, it needs to be cambered. I have a Japanese smoother that needs a bit more camber, it makes a nice clean cut but you can see an feel the edges of the cut still. I need to camber it a bit. Bob

Keith’s Note: Bob - Thanks for your thoughts on this video. On cambering - I’m not taking a position on what, if any, amount of cambering is correct, because where views differ there are always several approaches. Craig’s approach (who is in Japan teaching artisans in plane use, right now as I type) is to not camber the blade of his smoothing plane. He says that the final cuts are so fine, so whisper thin, that it is not necessary. Craig is very interested in the reflectivity on light on his work, so he has told me he generally wants a perfectly uniform surface. Still, when I speak with him next, I’ll ask Craig for clarification on his view. All that said, there are many outstanding artisans who camber their plane blades, so there are many ways to skin the proverbial cat. (Wink!)


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